Review: Massa Roman Square Pizza - Scotch Plains, NJ

Most Americans had access to only one style of pizza (round, thin, cut into triangle slices) before the breakout (roughly 20 years ago) of Neapolitan pizzaiolo stars at places like Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix, 2Amys in Washington DC, Mozza in Los Angeles, and Motorino in New York. The old-world Neapolitans that they introduced to modern America -- individual pies where San Marzano tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella ride on a thin soft crust (made with Italian 00 flour) rimmed by leopard-spotted puffy cornicione -- changed our view of pizza.

Three slices at Massa

This lurch toward "artisanal pizza" touched off the Pizza Renaissance in which these piemakers were imitated in cities across America, and pizza was elevated from fast/cheap food to an art form. The Pizza Renaissance roars on (much like the craft beer movement) and creative pizzaioli are bringing other styles out of obscurity and into the light, such as Detroit style and the "Granma" pie.

Yet one variety of pizza remains grossly under-represented -- Roman Style. I discovered it (where else?) in Rome, and it was spectacular. It is typically a very long rectangle (often oval at the long ends), cut into rectangle slices and (in Italy) sold "al taglio" by the weight of the slices. 

Al taglio pizza in Rome

The medium-thick crust of the slices we had at Forno Marco Roscioli was so delectable that it barely needed anything on top; in fact the most delicious slice was one adorned with a thin smear of tomato sauce, garlic, and olive oil.

Interior at Massa Roman Square Pizza

That authentic Roman experience was in 2012; I didn't see or taste any Roman style pizza again until more than 5 years later. To my delight, two genuine Roman style pizza shops opened in Philly - Alice and Rione. Both are spectacular, and Philadelphians are fortunate to have them among the other great pizza options in a great pizza town.

Italian specialties at Massa

I hadn't encountered any other Roman style pies in America until I was searching for a pizza place on my route to Newark Airport in New Jersey. Whenever in Jersey, I always rely on the myriad tastings and reviews written by Pete Genovese, and in that fashion I learned about Massa Roman Square Pizza. He called their pizza "the single best thing I ate in 2019" and if you follow Genovese, you know he eats a LOT of great food in the Garden State. 

Massa had its grand opening just three years ago, in a deep narrow storefront shop on scenic Park Avenue of Scotch Plains, across the street from the Municipal Building. Founded by Italian native Marco Massaro, the tidy shop offers the headline Roman style pizzas and a quality assortment of Italian specialties. 

Much like my pizza hero Norma Knepp (retired from Norma's Pizza in Mannheim PA), Massaro is largely self-taught in pizzamaking, and again like Norma he paid special attention to the dough. He completed his Neapolitan pizza chops in Naples with a certification from the AVPN (Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana) and later went to Rome to gain certification for crafting Roman style pies from the Associazione Pizzerie Italiane.

Click image to enlarge the menu

There are 18 (!) specialty pies on the menu, but I went with Genovese's recommendation, the Amatriciana, made with San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella, pecorino, pancetta (Italian bacon), black pepper, and olive oil. Pizza is sold by the slice, the half-tray, or the 18" x 24" full tray (much like Old Forge style pies are sold). My half-tray was $19, a great value for the six huge rectangles I got.

The huge trays are baked at 600 degrees in a Moretti Forni electric oven. A sign on the wall notes that the flour is Italian and the dough goes through a 72 hour fermentation process.

The counterman was especially friendly and helpful, and soon served up three hot slices nicely presented on a wooden board to accompany my "Pompelmo" San Pellegrino sparkling grapefruit soda and the Italian radio station being broadcast in the store.

My first impression was the stunning beauty of these slices, accompanied by the yeasty aroma of fresh baked bread. The medium-thick crust was airy and light inside with a remarkably crisp crunch outside. Many pan-baked pies employ a lot of oil to get that crispy bottom, but the underside here was not greasy at all.

Crisp bottom without a lot of oil

This crust was among the very best I had this year or any year, an ideal blend of crunchy and chewy, and certainly good enough to eat and enjoy even without any toppings. Adding to the beauty of this pie was the orange/red color on the top sides of the cornicione, as though a thin smear of red sauce had been painted on there.

The mozzarella and pecorino blend was applied generously over the base of San Marzano sauce. These elements would have been the highlights of any regular pizza, but here they were layers of flavor and texture to help show off that astonishingly good crust.

Genovese had singled out the the pancetta and black pepper toppings as the selling point of the Amatriciana pie, and they did indeed elevate this pizza from superb to spectacular. It was salt and pepper and, hey, bacon! I had ordered this pizza over the phone based on the recommendation, and hadn't even checked on the ingredients. When I saw the pancetta (a more concentrated but less smoky bacon cousin, both made from pork belly), I thought it was guanciale and noted that it "looks like hog jowl bacon."

Anyhow, this pancetta added the punch, the umami, the wow factor. In my notes, I wrote that I wished it was easier to get some of that delcious cured meat in each bite. In fact, I took four slices home with me to Texas, and before re-heating them, I removed the pancetta, broke it into small pieces, and distributed it across each slice. Certainly a less artful look, but it did make for a more even flavor in each bite.

Re-heated at home, with divided pancetta

In this pandemic era, I really had to cut back travel and pizza visits in 2020. 2021 has provided a bit more opportunity, especially in the magical pizza land of New Jersey. I got to visit two Jersey legends, both serving up classic pies for over 100 years -- Federici's in Freehold and Papa's Tomato Pies in Robbinsville. I had cutting edge pizza in San Antonio at Playland, and another legendary slice at Joe's in New York's Greenwich Village. I loved them all, but this may be my top discovery in 2021.

Scotch Plains City Hall

Once again, I've confirmed that you can place your full trust in a food endorsement from Pete Genovese, If you're even remotely within driving distance of Scotch Plains, get in your car and go. This is the kind of pizza that is so good that people should be lining up outside.