Saturday, February 21, 2026

Review: Good Pie - Las Vegas NV

The Background: An Evolution of Casino Town Food

When the casinos came to Atlantic City NJ in the 1970s, folks of my parents' generation would board casino-bound buses from our Philly-area suburbs, lured by the free transit and a ten-dollar roll of quarters for the slots. Such day trippers didn't spend a lot for food (exception: a big gambling win), opting instead for buffet restaurants with for low prices, abundant offerings, and long lines. In my short experience there during the 80s, the food at casino buffets was uninspiring.
The Brooklyn Pepperoni

The Premise: Vegas Pizza Compared to NYC, Chicago, Trenton, New Haven

Vegas food offerings traveled a parallel path, and in this century, most of the seedy buffets have been replaced by midscale and upscale restaurants. Love it or hate it, you probably recognize that Las Vegas has many great dining choices. I was able to confirm this in 2011, when I visited DOCG Pizza inside the Cosmopolitan Hotel in Las Vegas. It was among the best Neapolitan pies I had tried. Was that typical for Vegas, or an outlier? 

The Promise: Las Vegas Has Some Great Pizza Makers!

Fast forward to 2017, when I visited the Pizza Palooza event near Washington DC. Here was an astonishing assembly of Pizza Royalty making fresh pizzas for sampling. These top pizzaioli were slinging pies that day: John Arena (of Metro Pie in Vegas), Robert Caporuscio (Keste), Giulio Andriani (Forcella), Paulie Gee (Paulie G's), Nino Coniglio (Williamsburg Pizza), and Vincent Rotolo (Good Pie in Vegas). Key takeaway was that my top 2 pies that day were from the two Las Vegas pizza makers! I vowed to focus on pizza if I ever returned to Vegas.
"Johnny Be Good" Grandma slice

The Discovery: Testing the Promise from Pizza Palooza

Nine years later, that trip to Vegas happened as the third and final stop of a "western desert" vacation that included Palm Springs and Death Valley. I had to make some hard choices and wasn't able to visit Metro Pie, but we did get to Rotolo's Good Pie for dinner on a warm January evening.
The cozy confines inside Good Pie

The menu presented a challenge: there were four major styles of pizza offered, including Brooklyn round, Grandma, Sicilian, and Detroit. At the Pizza Palooza, I had said this about the gluten-free Detroit slice: "It was spectacular pie, one of the best I've eaten all year. Crisp, dense yet chewy, and topped with the perfect balance of sauce and cheese. Vincent talked with me for a long time about his method and his passion for creating this pie. I was nearly speechless. If you are in Las Vegas, you have to try this pizza."
A slice of the Brooklyn Pepperoni

Despite that praise for the Detroit style, we selected the Brooklyn Pepperoni (fresh mozzarella, aged mozzarella, sauce, basil, parm, pepperoni) as our primary choice. Happily, because Good Pie also sells slices, I was able to also sample a Grandma "Johnny Be Good" slice (tomato sauce, mozzarella, fresh garlic, caramelized onions, mushrooms, Italian sausage, basil & parm).
Beautiful undercarriage of the Grandma slice

The slice came to the table first, and it hit all the right notes. The medium-thick crust was delightfully crisp on the bottom and airy inside. It had the structure to properly support the relatively large payload of toppings. All the flavors and textures were in harmony in this umami-laden slice.

The Brooklyn round pizza was beautiful to the eye. I can't fully articulate why, but there are visual clues in the cornicione of a well-crafted pie, and this one was telecasting its expertly made dough. The edges were puffy and dark, but without char marks. Much like the Grandma slice, the crust was a perfect vehicle to support the sauce, cheese, and pepperoni topping.
Underside of the Brooklyn pie

The sauce was deeply flavored, and the pepperoni was a high-grade "cup and char" variety. The cheese was similarly excellent, but also the one element that was a bit out of balance. It seemed like too much cheese relative to the other ingredients, so much that the center of the pie was a bit droopy. To my dismay, pizzaiolo Vincent Rotolo wasn't at the pizzeria that night. It's been my experience on many occasions across America that pizza staff can't fully replicate the genius of the creator, and the most common error is overloading the toppings.

Conclusion

This, though, is a minor quibble. Both pizzas were fully delicious and showed their heritage. The pizzeria had the perfect vibe - looks, lighting, service - to complement the food. The deep and narrow interior space felt like a place that had been there for decades, and I'd be eager to return on my next pass through Las Vegas. 
Lots of cheese

For the pizza die‑hards - the folks who debate hydration percentages and can spot a cold‑ferment crumb from across the room - Good Pie is one of the rare spots off the Strip where the craft actually matters. It's a place doing proper Grandma squares with real chew and caramelized edges, and New York style slices that show off a confident hand with dough and sauce. These aren’t the breathless takes you see on Yelp; they’re the nods of people who’ve eaten enough great pizza to know when someone’s sweating the details and having fun doing it.

Thursday, February 12, 2026

Must-Try New Pizza - The Best Spots and the Breakout Pizzas of 2025

Each January, Pizza Quixote brings a summary recap of the best pizzas we found the prior year. These are slices and pizzerias that are *New To Us* - not a list of the best pizzas ever (though indeed some qualify). We're a few days late, but in covering pizzas from far-flung places around the globe (Buffalo, Hong Kong, Austin, Trenton NJ, and your grocer's freezer), we hope it was worth the wait.

Here's the countdown, beginning with two Honorable Mentions. My goodness, frozen pizza has come a long way from Ellio's! The standard measuring stick for any frozen pizza or even a Mom'n'Pop pizza shop is DiGiorno's Rising Crust Pizza. Most pizzas (including some popular frozen pies and even the giant chains (Ahem, Papa John) are not better than DiGiorno. But here's two that are, by a lot.

HONORABLE MENTION Urban Pie "Pinzza" Roman Style Pizza (frozen). 

I was turned on to the "Pinza/Pinsa/Pinzza" style by the wonderful refrigerator case take-and-bake rectangular pizzas sold at Costco - check out the full review here. Bottom line for both this frozen pizza and the Costco pie - the crust is a game changer. 

We noted that "the pinsa crust on this pizza is very very good - almost great. Crispy, chewy, yet light and airy, and very tasty. The sauce and cheese were good quality, and served as role players here, melding nicely while letting the crust do the heavy lifting. The pepperoni added an important umami boost; would have liked the slices to be a little thicker. Overall, one of the best frozen pizzas you can get. $14 is cheap for a pizzeria pizza, but expensive for a smallish frozen pizza; still, I'd buy again."

Read the full review here.

HONORABLE MENTION Table 87 Coal Oven Pizza Slice (frozen)

Would you buy a frozen single slice of pizza? Would you pay $6 for it? I did! This Neapolitan hybrid truly delivered a lot of the quality of a fresh slice from a quality pizzeria. 

The review states that "Even though the flavors were good and in harmony, it lacked punch. Of course any cured meat topping would fix that; I made it a LOT better by adding a little salt. Despite some room for improvement, this is as good as frozen pizza gets. We've come a long way on the journey to "great pizza not from a pizzeria" with frozen pie this good."

Read the full review here.


6. DeSano Pizzeria Napoletana, Austin TX

The Pizza Renaissance was started (my opinion) by Chris Bianco at Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix, who put Neapolitan pizza on the map in America. Was he the first? The best? Maybe to both, but surely the one to take it from a quirk to a phenomenon. I had great enthusiasm about Neapolitan pizza 15 years ago, but it has become so ubiquitous that many now seem ordinary. DeSano, adhering strictly to the guidelines of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (VPN), stands out.

We noted that "The crust was textbook Neapolitan, expertly rendered. It was thin and soft with a cornicione that was both dense and puffy. It had the signature leopard spotting on the edges and underneath ...  a particularly well made pie with superior ingredients. If Neapolitan is your jam, DeSano is about as good as it gets."

Read the full review here.


5. Alice Pizza - Wan Chai, Hong Kong, China

Serendipity led us to finding this outpost of an Italian chain in Hong Kong. I had experienced Alice Pizza at its first US location in Philadelphia (review here), and absolutely loved it. When we stumbled on this one in Hong King, it was a must-try.

It was more of a corner shop than a full sit-down restaurant as we had experienced in Philly. In our tasting notes, we recorded "Just as we had experienced at the Alice Cucina Romana in Philadelphia, the medium-thick crust was impeccable, with a wonderful texture (light inside, crisp outside) and a delicious flavor. I suspect that you can't make a bad choice here. The Carbonara slice was bursting with flavor, and of course how can you go wrong with egg and bacon? The Diavola was only mildly spicy, but the soppressata-like cured meat was bringing the umami. Both slices were ideally balanced - the crust was fully capable of supporting the payload of toppings, with no sag or soggy spots."

Read the full review here.


4. Jay's Artisan Pizza - Buffalo, NY

On my first-ever visit to Buffalo, I was keen to try "Buffalo Style" pizza but I was drawn to the great buzz around Jay's, which offers both Neapolitan and Detroit styles. Jay’s is currently ranked as the sixth best pizza in America, according to the Italian website 50 Top Pizza. Our party of four ordered one Detroit pie and two Neapolitans.

In our review, we said that "the Detroit-style pizza was nothing short of spectacular. The crust was a masterclass in contrast: airy and light inside, yet crunchy and fried on the bottom, with that signature frico edge that crackles like a potato chip. This is the kind of pizza that makes you forget you’re in Buffalo and start Googling flights to Motor City. I didn't find any flaws, and it stands with the best Detroit pies I've had anywhere."

Jay's Neapolitan didn't reach the same level, as we recorded "The Neapolitan pies are clearly made with care. The crust had that ideal puffy cornicione, charred just enough, with a soft, elastic chew. But the Margherita ($17) was a letdown. The sauce was underseasoned and timid, lacking the punch you expect from San Marzano tomatoes. The mozzarella, too, was bland and forgettable, more texture than taste."

Make no mistake, it was a quality Neapolitan, but the Detroiter was the clear star.  Read the full review here.


3. Riccardo's Pizza and Italian Restaurant - Browns Mills, NJ

Having lived in or near South Jersey for most of my life, I knew that there wasn't much noteworthy pizza south of Trenton (notable early exceptions: Holy Tomato Pie in Blackwood and Bricco in Westmont). Therefore, I was astonished by the chatter on the Facebook group "Jersey Pizza Joints" around several new places making great Trenton-style tomato pie in unthinkable places - Lillo's and Mateo's (both in Hainesport) and Riccardo's, way out in Browns Mills, which grew as a bedroom community for military families tied to Fort Dix and McGuire Air Force Base (now combined and known as Joint Base McGuire-Dix-Lakehurst). 

Riccardo's Browns Mills Tomato Pie

On a trip back to central Jersey (home base was Ewing), I got the opportunity to finally try some. Much regret that I didn't get to Lillo's or Mateo's, but our group of four made the trek out to Browns Mills. Riccardo's has a huge menu beyond the pizza, and even offers Trenton tomato pie, Detroit style, Sicilian style, Grandma pizza, conventional (NY) pizza, and the "Skinny Minnie Thinnie."

The Skinny Minnie Thinnie

We wanted ALL of them, but settled on one "Browns Mills Tomato Pie" and one Skinny Minnie Thinnie because both were getting the most buzz online. We noted that the Skinny "was indeed cracker-thin, but its crust was sturdy enough to give proper support to its substantial cheese payload on top. 'Skinny' may decribe the thickness of this pan baked delight, but it surely cannot refer to the calories, because this pie was dense with cheese and the lovely oil from cup-and-char style of pepperoni. Some edges sported a beautifully caramelized cheese border ...  don't sleep on this one. It's not a gimmick, despite the name suggesting that it's some kind of diet pizza."

No tip droop on the tomato pie!

The tomato pie? We found a legit competitor to Trenton's best, noting "This pie was hitting all the right notes. The thin-yet-crisp crust with a flavor of its own, the slightly sweet sauce (less chunky than DeLorenzo's), the ideal balance of the sauce-to-cheese-to-crust ratio, and even the lovely fresh basil on top. The pinched sausage was indeed the ideal topping, and it was top quality stuff. This is spectacular tomato pie. All the elements were in perfect harmony. Full legit in every aspect, and it's better than my old standby, Joe's Tomato Pie. This was flawless. Riccardo's deserves every bit of the praise it's getting online."

Read the full review here.  


2. Allday Pizza - Austin, TX

Specialty pizza (Detroit, Neapolitan, Grandma) is all the current rage, so it's a big deal when a more or less conventional New York style pizza stands apart from the crowd. When that happens, it's all about quality ingredients and execution. Doesn't hurt that the pizzamakers behind this Texas pizza joint are from New Jersey and Connecticut.

A large group hit up this wildly popular place at opening time (noon) and there was a line out the door before we finished lunch. We soon understood why. Allday is mostly a slice joint, so we chose a variety of slices equivalent to two full pies. Every damn bite was delicious, but some different topping combos really stood out. 

Perfect undercarriage

Our tasting notes said "This was a perfect and brilliant rendition of a New York style crust. It had a crisped yet airy big cornicione that appealed to both the eye and the palate. The main body of the crust was thin and crispy, but pliable in that classic New York way. The 'Pep & Pepp' slice featured that idyllic crust topped with a fresh tasting sauce, a generous but proportionate amount of mozzarella, and some top-line cup-and-char style pepperoni. Scattered on top was a sprinking of minced pepperoncini, adding a salty/spicy/vinegary note. This was one of the more conventional slices we tried and it was terrific. The 'slice I never would have chosen but blew me away' was the 'Vodka Baby'. The sauce was so good that I didn't notice the mozzarella (apparently under the sauce). Until now, the best New York pizza in Austin has been Home Slice, the venerable slice joint on South Congress Avenue. But Allday is Great Pizza, not only in the conversation for 'best New York pizza in Austin' but also 'Best Pizza in Austin'."

Read the full review here.


1. JoJo's Tavern, Hamilton (Trenton) NJ

I lived in or near Trenton for more than 25 years, with fabulous exposure to the great tomato pies and pizzas as well as the sorely-missed Italian restaurants of the Chambersburg section. The biggest mistake I made during those years was my over-attachment to DeLorenzo's Tomato Pies. No question that they were the best for their entire run on Hudson Street (and still top shelf at their Robbinsville and Yardley locations today), but I somehow:

  1. Never went to Papa's Tomato Pies until about a year before they moved to Robbinsville;
  2. Went to Joe's Tomato Pies only when the phone was off the hook at DeLorenzo's due to too many orders 3 minutes after opening;
  3. Had beer and pizza once at JoJo's after a softball game and never returned!

Finally I had the chance to fix that last one on my 2025 visit to Mercer County. JoJo's is one of those places where the spirit really counts. You wanna know Trenton? This is it. I noted that "The overall vibe of JoJo's was much more upscale than my hazy memory of the early 80s' version. But man oh man, the crowd defined 'Trenton/Hamilton' as well as possible. It's hard for me to articulate what makes the Trenton environs unique beyond the ability of locals to pronounce 'Trenton' as one syllable, but this places feels just like Trenton always did to me decades ago." 

Beyond a delectable side of escarole and beans (brought back memories of Chambersburg), we got busy with the pizza. (Key point: yeah this is Trenton area, but this is a pizza, not a tomato pie). We chose a large pie ($17) and added sausage (pinched raw onto the pie before baking, the ONLY proper way) for $3 more. 


Our review said "The crust was lovely - crispy and crunchy, very thin but perfectly sturdy. The sauce had the iconic Jersey flavor. It's true that top notch Jersey pizza tastes different than pizza in other places, even many Philly and NYC pizzerias. That signature sauce mingled with the generous amount of conventional mozzarella and some damn fine sausage. Almost (almost!) too much cheese, but it had a wonderful flavor. Again, a flavor you don't find in many places outside Jersey. This pie was nearly perfectly balanced, and the sausage delivered the umami bang that brought it all home. No pizza outside the Philly-NJ-NYC corridor has this flavor. It's not a tomato pie, but it's sooooo Trenton." 

Technically, this was a "re-discovery" because I had JoJo's pizza 40 years ago, but that was long before I really understood much about pizza. 

Read the full review here.


BONUS CONTENT! DeLorenzo's Tomato Pies VS Papa's Tomato Pies

Despite the rise of upstarts like Riccardo's, Lillo's, and Mateo's, my Jersey trip afforded me the chance to eat tomato pie at these two legendary pie slingers. We did it On The Same Day, back to back, for the fairest comparison. Could DeLo hang on to the lead it has held in my heart for 40+ years?

Here's the answer!



Monday, November 24, 2025

Review: Screamin' Sicilian "Holy Pepperoni" Frozen Pizza

 During this decades-long Pizza Renaissance, frozen pizza has taken a back seat because it's so easy to find good-to-great pizza almost anywhere. That's not to say that frozen pizza hasn't improved substantially, and so when I found the Screamin' Sicilian "Holy Pepperoni" pizza on sale for $3.99 (usually in the $6 to $9 range), it was an easy decision to stash one in my home freezer.

It spent about a month in my freezer, stored vertically in a frozen pizza storage slot. That was probably a mistake, because the pepperoni had all shifted to one side of the pie. However, it was easy to redistribute the sliced rounds and I couldn't do it without overlapping pepperoni, which means there was a LOT of pepperoni there. The pizza was pretty small, perhaps 10.5 inches in diameter.

Pre-bake

The recommended baking time was 17-19 minutes at 425 degrees; mine looked perfectly done at 18 minutes. I allowed it a minute to cool before cutting it into six modest triangles.

The pepperoni dominated the sensory experience; salty, oily, chewy, umami-rich. The cheese was also prominent - chewy, creamy, and pretty much melded into the sauce. That sauce was a role player here, but the flavors of the sauce, cheese and pepperoni were nicely balanced.

The crust was disappointing, tasting like the crust of another era when frozen pizza was mediocre at best. It was soft but sturdy enough, but lacked the character of good pizza crust or even good bread. "Toasted white bread" would be the nicest thing I can say about it; it was merely a delivery vehicle for the other ingredients.

The New York Times product evaluation team at Wirecutter included this pizza in their "Top Nine" frozen pizzas, largely based on the copious amounts of cheese and pepperoni. Their reviewers were a little kinder regarding the crust, but said "The crust is no star, reminiscent of a thicker version of the crunchy, crumbly, almost cracker-like crust you’d find in a Red Baron or Tombstone pizza."

Underside had a little character 

For any pizza, be it frozen or delivery or in a booth at your local mom'n'pop pizza shop, the baseline for comparison is DiGiorno rising crust pizza. Is it better than DiGiorno? This one isn't, because the crust is always (ALWAYS) the most important component of any pizza.

This pizza was good, surely worth the $4 I spent and not bad even in its regular price range. But if you want a great pie that is universally available like frozen pizza, get a pizza from the food court at Whole Foods (review HERE) or get the "Pinsa" pizza in the refrigerated section of Costco (review HERE).