Before
our trip to Italy, I did some pizza research. We could not squeeze Naples into
our busy itinerary, so the focus shifted to Rome for finding great Italian
pizza. Using the net and especially the accumulated wisdom at Slice –
SeriousEats, I scouted out four places in Rome, most of which were walking
distance from our hotel near the Coliseum. We set out one day through a neighborhood
that featured two or three of the targeted pizza vendors.
The pizza counter at Forno Marco Roscioli |
From the street. Click any pic to enlarge |
All
of the pies on our list were of the thin, crisp crust style – Roman pizza.
Although our guide the night before had steered us to some places offering
Neapolitan (softer, puffy leopard-spotted crust) pies, I stuck to my research,
my own preferences in America for thin/crisp NY/Trenton pies over Neapolitan,
and my intuition. So many people have come back from Italy saying “you haven’t
had pizza until you’ve had it in Italy” and it was time to see how pizza in
America compares to pizza in Italy.
The other baked goods at Roscioli |
Navigating
is difficult in Italy, on foot or by car. Street names like “Via Madonna Dei
Monti” often seem longer than the actual streets
twisting at random, and the names change after 2 or 3 blocks. Maps are
notoriously inaccurate. It’s generally not a problem for the tourist, because
each wrong turn takes you down yet another delightful cobblestone street or
alley with a new set of surprises.
Scenes from the nearby Campo di Fiori Farm Market |
Anyhow, after several wrong turns en route
to the Campo di Fiore Farmers Market, we found ourselves standing outside a
bustling bakery/pizzeria at lunchtime. To my delight, we realized it was Forno
Marco Roscioli. Even though we’d had a big breakfast, we couldn’t pass up this
opportunity.
Inside,
maybe one third of the space was devoted to counters with huge rectangular
pizzas. The brusque counterman was lopping off two-slice servings, with a quick
waxed-paper wrap. We chose some of the simpler offerings – one that in the USA
would be called “tomato pie” for its lack of cheese, and one more conventional
looking slice with mozzarella and some bright red sausage. I forget what it cost, but prices were moderate
for this pizza sold by weight.
There
is no seating inside this attractive space, but there were a few tables (no
chairs) outside. We stood with other patrons on this busy (foot traffic) street
to eat our pizza.
Slices/sandwich, not ours |
My sausage slice. |
The
crust was thin and crisp, but not as thin as, say, Pepe’s in New Haven or Papa’s
Tomato Pies in Trenton. It was rigid enough to support its toppings with no sag
at all (of course, that is always easier with square slices) but there was a
delicate chewiness to the interior. The red sauce, vibrant, looked fresh and
tasted that way.
The olive oil, judiciously applied, gave a glisten |
Here we had an experience that was repeated throughout Italy –
the crust and the sauce are so good that the cheese is a distraction. My slice with cheese and sauasge was wonderful – great bread, fresh sauce, olive oil – but
the cheeseless slice one was better. This is opposite of my American experience,
where even the best tomato pie seems to be missing the cheese. It makes me eager
to re-assess some of the top tomato pie makers here.
The
pie at Roscioli was wonderful, fresh, crisp, savory, oily, delicious. It was
the best pie we had in Italy. The critical question is comparing it to DiFara,
DeLorenzo’s, LaPorta, and the other best pizzas I’ve had in America. One trip
to Italy, without even getting to Naples, did not provide sufficient data for
unimpeachable conclusions, but I’ll say that my overall impression is that the
best Italian pizza is not like any American pizza I’ve had. But even with
pronounced differences, my sense is that the best Italian pizza stands alongside
the best American pizza.
The
pie I had at Roscioli surely is among the Top Ten of my experience. I often
rate the separate elements of a pie – crust, sauce, cheese, toppings – to help
arrive at an overall rating. Here, the
crust and sauce are 10 or real close, but the cheese can be omitted! This is
wonderful stuff and I’d eat a LOT of it if I could find anything like it near
my home.
Looks delicious
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