Review: A Tavola, Cincinnati, OH

This blog features occasional guest reviews. "The Franklin Expedition" previously reviewed Primanti Brothers in Grove City, PA. Here's a new one:  

Cincinnati is full of surprises. 

From www.facebook.com/pg/ATavolaPizza

The William Howard Taft birthplace/historical site is a fascinating place to spend a morning or afternoon. The Cincinnati Art Museum has, among many worthwhile holdings, a stunning collection of Islamic calligraphy from the 17th and 18th centuries. Krohn Conservatory displays thousands of beautiful and exotic plants in a pleasant setting. The latter two institutions are in large, lovely Eden Park.  

Downtown is easy to drive in and there are at least three vibrant and attractive neighborhoods, Over the Rhine, Walnut Hill, and Mount Adams.  But among these and other surprises, perhaps the least expected was superb pizza. 

Cincinnati is definitely a Midwestern city and its primary ethnic heritage seems to be German. For someone used to pizza crafted by New Jersey/New York Italians, neither of those Cincy descriptors sounds promising. But a necessary visit to the Ohio River city and a bit of research led us to think we should give a place called A Tavola (“to the table”) a try. 

Interior at A Tavola

We drove into the trendy Over the Rhine section and easily found parking (another surprisingly common thing in this busy city). The restaurant is in a beautifully preserved commercial building and has an attractive interior, with the exposed overhead ductwork and refinished hardwood floors that typify these restorations. 

Gorgonzola and sausage pizza

From the extensive drinks and wine list, we selected a Fantasia (limoncello made in house, plus prosecco and sorbet) and a Bellini. Both were refreshing and tasty. Our ‘red and bleu’ salads combined Bibb lettuce, radicchio, cherry tomatoes, red onions, and Gorgonzola in a balsamic vinaigrette.  Ingredients were perfectly fresh and the combination was excellent. 

Red and bleu salad

Our Margherita pizza emerged from the wood fired Stefano Ferrera oven with a somewhat charred, remarkably light crust. The tomato sauce had rich flavor that blended well with the fiore i latte mozzarella. Shreds of fresh basil were scattered over the pizza—I may have added a bit more, but that is a small quibble. The overall taste of each slice was, simply, delicious. 

Stefano Ferrara wood fired oven

We were so pleased with the Margherita, and it was so light, that we decided we could have a second pie. We opted for a house specialty that includes tomato sauce, mozzarella, Gorgonzola, sausage, and pepperoni.  Recognizing the Pizza Quixote dictum that a pizza is spoiled by too many toppings, we asked them to omit the pepperoni. 

Perfect char underneath

The resulting pie was first rate. The sausage is cured in house and is more American than Italian, but was very flavorful, with both spicy and sweet elements. The strongly flavored Gorgonzola could easily have overwhelmed the other toppings, but instead served to balance the spiciness of the sausage. 

Our knowledgeable server noted that A Tavola emphasizes local sourcing of ingredients (even the beers on tap at the bar are from local microbreweries) and in-house preparation of everything, including curing their own meats. 

Fantasia (L) and Bellini (R) drinks

When we learned that this included homemade gelato, we had to ask to wrap the last two slices of pizza so that we could try it. We both chose stracciatella, and were rewarded by the perfect ending to a superb meal—rich, creamy, and smooth. 

Stracciatella gelato

We don’t have a specific reason to return to the “Queen City” anytime soon, but our experiences were so pleasant that we might try to find one. And if we do, we’re certain to pay another visit to A Tavola.