A Pizza Guy Talks About Philly Cheesesteaks
A Tribute to Pete
What does a pizza guy know, or care, about cheesesteak
sandwiches? Well, most importantly, the aspect that makes a great pizza is the
same as that which enables a world class Philly steak sandwich: the bread. If it is soft, wet, factory-made, flavorless, or otherwise unable to
support the other richly endowed components, the entire enterprise fails. And I HAVE
done considerable research!
The first time I went to spring training in Clearwater,
2008, I went alone. The Phillies won the World Series that year, and the
following three years I returned with my friend Pete. I knew Pete mostly as the
father of one of my daughter’s close friends, but I got to see what a great guy
he is in all aspects; traveling together offers that opportunity.
Grouper sandwich. Photo from www.frenchysonline.com |
We took our inspiration from sports-talk host Glen Macnow
of AM radio station 610 - WIP. Glen conducted the “Great
Cheesesteak Challenge” by which he ate 45 (or more) cheesesteaks in 40
days. Here is his ranking:
Pete and I typically covered two cheesesteak joints on each journey into Philly. Now, the smart thing to do would have been to visit Stop #1, order a cheesesteak, split it, then move on to Stop #2, split another sandwich. But we never did it that way. At Stop #1, we’d each order a full steak sandwich, customized to our liking (if there was a choice of small or large, I did select “small”). Then, we’d drive 20 minutes and do it all over! Another sandwich, another Coke, and sometimes fries!
1.
John`s Roast Pork, South Philadelphia, PA
2. Steve’s
Prince of Steaks- Philadelphia, PA
3.
Chink’s Steaks (now "Joe's Steak & Soda Shop") - N.E.
Philadelphia, PA
4. Talk
of the Town, South Philadelphia, PA
5. Grey
Lodge Pub, Northeast Philadelphia, PA
6.
Slack’s Hoagie Shack, N.E. Philadelphia
7.
Sonny’s Famous Steaks- Old City, Philadelphia
8. Tony
Luke’s- South Philadelphia, PA
9. White
House Sub Shop, Atlantic City, NJ
10.
Dalessandro`s- Roxborough, PA
11.
Donkey’s II, Medford, N.J.,
12.
Jim`s Steaks- West Philadelphia, PA
13.
Oregon Beef, South Philadelphia
14.
Frusco Steaks, N.E. Philadelphia, PA
15.
Chubby`s- Roxborough, PA
16.
Pepper Mill, West Chester, PA
17.
Cosmi’s Deli, South Philadelphia, PA
18.
Pudge’s, Blue Bel, PA
19.
Fresh Works, Springfield, PA
20.
Campo’s, Old City, Philadelphia
21. Mr.
V’s Steaks,, Northeast Philadelphia
22.
John’s Pizza, Frazer,PA
23. Leo’s, Folcroft, PA
24.
Gaetano’s, Brooklawn, N.J
25.
Little Beef’s, Mount Laurel, N.J
26.
Grilladelphia, Philadelphia (Fishtown)
27.
Lou’s, Norristown, PA
28.
Dimitri’s Steak and Hoagies, Philadelphia
29.
Mama’s Pizzeria, Bala Cynwyd, PA
30.
Rick’s in the Reading Terminal Market
31. La
Sicilia, Oxford, PA
32. The
Phil’s Tavern, Ambler, PA
33.
Station Pizza, Philadelphia, PA
34.
Larry’s, Philadelphia, PA
35.
Geno’s Steaks, South Philadelphia
36.
Steak ‘Em-Up, South Philadelphia
37.
Anthony's Cafe and Bar, Fishtown, Phila
38. Real
Pizza, Narberth, PA
39. Abner’s,
Philadelphia, PA
40. City
Line Pizza, Philadelphia, PA
41. Max's
Steaks, Philadelphia, PA
42. Pat’s
King of Steaks, South Phila
43. Bill
Pagano’s, Philadelphia (Mount Airy)
44. Sub
Shoppe, Maple Shade, N.J
45. Sun
Valley Pizzeria and Catering, Narberth, PA
Pete and I typically covered two cheesesteak joints on each journey into Philly. Now, the smart thing to do would have been to visit Stop #1, order a cheesesteak, split it, then move on to Stop #2, split another sandwich. But we never did it that way. At Stop #1, we’d each order a full steak sandwich, customized to our liking (if there was a choice of small or large, I did select “small”). Then, we’d drive 20 minutes and do it all over! Another sandwich, another Coke, and sometimes fries!
Neither Pete nor I were small guys at the time – both about
6 feet tall and 210 pounds – but that still is a boatload of food. Recently, I
had a steak from Steve’s (number Two on Glen’s list) and felt fully bloated after
just one sandwich. How did I ever eat two in less than an hour? But I did. And
now the story can be told.
Half-decent steak sub from "Charley's Grilled Subs" chain |
Philly is home to a lot of great sandwiches, for certain. The city’s best hoagie is at Sarcone's, and nearby some other epicurean delights between bread are found at Paesano’s.
I have decided, finally, that whole slices of beef are superior to the chopped up style for inclusion in cheesesteak sandwiches. I surely enjoy sandwiches both ways, but there is a better “al dente” experience to whole slices, and you know that the vendor is not hiding gristle by chopping the meat finely.
The two cheesesteaks that call me back are John’s Roast Pork
in South Philly, and Chink’s (now Joe’s Steak and Soda Shop) in Northeast
Philly. So here’s my capsule take on the
best cheesesteaks I’ve found (and some less than great) in the Philadelphia
region.
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1) Joe's Steak and Soda (Formerly Chink's Steaks) (Northeast Philly)
Joe’s hits on all the key factors -- the roll, the meat,
the emulsion of grease and grilled onions. There are certainly
more famous cheesesteaks in Philly (the good but overrated tourist traps Pat's
and Geno's), but Joe's is clearly the very best.
What makes a superb sandwich? The bread is the foundation. So many places use a roll that is too soft and has no character. (Tony Luke's makes a fine CS but their roll is actually too firm.) This roll is perfect in flavor and texture, with some mild exterior crunch and a satisfying chewiness within.
Next, you need the perfect meld of meat, cheese, and grilled onions. You can watch it all happen in the storefront griddle. Joe's uses whole slices. I can enjoy a CS with chopped meat, but Joe's uses high quality beef that shines in the whole slice format.
This
place smells delicious, it has a comfy retro feel, and the sandwiches are
perfection. With the ambiance and the friendly staff, this is the Number One
Cheesesteak in the world. Joe's is the new name, but the steak is the same.
What makes a superb sandwich? The bread is the foundation. So many places use a roll that is too soft and has no character. (Tony Luke's makes a fine CS but their roll is actually too firm.) This roll is perfect in flavor and texture, with some mild exterior crunch and a satisfying chewiness within.
Next, you need the perfect meld of meat, cheese, and grilled onions. You can watch it all happen in the storefront griddle. Joe's uses whole slices. I can enjoy a CS with chopped meat, but Joe's uses high quality beef that shines in the whole slice format.
From www.cheesesteakmeouttotheballgame.com |
2) John's Roast Pork in South Philly
Another superb sandwich. John’s has VERY odd hours, in that it caters
to third-shift city workers – they open early, close by 3pm, and aren’t open
weekends. To get a sandwich there, I needed to take vacation time to get there
before a Phils game.
You will generally encounter a long line for cheesesteaks.
The steak is housed in a beautiful seeded roll, and you might cry when you see
the staff tear out the soft interior bread to make room for the steak, onions,
and cheese. But the final result is wondrous, and the roll is key.
However, their roast pork is even better. The pork simmers in a salty broth and is
heaped into the same lovely roll, and you can add greens (spinach only; they would
go up a notch if they had broccoli rabe) and aged provolone. This may be the
second best sandwich in the city, trailing only the perfectly balanced banh mi
(Viet Hoagie) at QT Sandwich Shop (details HERE).
The steak at John's |
The roast pork at John's |
No sandwich has better balance than banh mi |
3) Steve’s Prince of Steaks, Northeast Philly,
Langhorne
Just a small stainless steel counter, odd Philly ordering
system by which you need to go to different windows with different cashiers in
order to get fries and a drink with your sandwich, but they nail it. Lovely
fresh roll, succulent tasty ribeye, great grilled onions. On my last visit, I
ordered American cheese and was disappointed to find that it was applied in a liquid
“Wiz” style. I really wanted slices of deli-style American cheese, not a flow
of white goop.
4) Grey Lodge, NE Philly
This tavern gets bonus points for ambiance. Sit at the bar,
watch a game, have some excellent beer, and a well-crafted cheesesteak. I’d be
there a LOT if I lived nearby.
5-8) Tie. Frusco's,
Shank's, Oregon Beef, Talk of the Town
These are wonderful, near-great places. We enjoyed delicious steaks at each, with fresh rolls,
tender steak, and some grill skill with the onions. Shank's has a nice riverfront location off Columbus Blvd, easy to hit on the way to a Phillies game.
9) Tony Luke's, South Philly
TL’s can be great or it can be so-so. I noted a drop-off in
quality a few years back, but a comeback more recently. They are
expanding, new locations as well as a frozen version. It’s never going to be
the best, but it will likely always be better than any cheesesteak you can get
outside the Philly region.
10)
The Pepper Mill, Rt. 352 at Paoli Pike, West Chester
They do chop the steak, but it’s good enough and tender
enough to be served in whole slices. Juicy, savory, and nestled in a superb
fresh roll that would be too soft for an ideal hoagie but hits the spot for
this cheesesteak. DO NOT, however, order the pizza here – it is soft, floppy,
bland, and mediocre. I also enjoy the crinkle-cut fries here.
From www.cheesesteakmeouttotheballgame.com |
11)
Chubby’s. 5826 Henry Ave., Roxborough
12) D’Alessandro’s, 600 Wendover Ave, Roxborough
12) D’Alessandro’s, 600 Wendover Ave, Roxborough
Chubby's and D’Alessandro’s are great neighborhood places,
but I gotta say the sandwiches are on the Pat's & Geno's level. The roll, fresh and tasty, was identical in
both places, but too soft for my tastes. It did not detract, but nor did it
enhance.
Great atmosphere in the cramped D'Alessandro's, and very
friendly service. Alas, out of all the steaks we've had on our Macnow quest, this was the worst. No
flavor at all. Chubby's was considerably better -- flavorful beef, but like
D'Alessandro's, you could barely taste the provolone. Neither is worth the trip out to East Falls/Roxborough.
Also-Rans: Geno’s and Pat’s
Geno's steaks are a little better than Pat’s but I don't
think I ever want to buy a sandwich there again, due to their anti-immigrant stance. Everyone – local or tourist – needs to visit
Pat’s/Geno’s just once, but more for the atmosphere than for the culinary
experience. It’s really a colorful scene, but it likely leaves a lot of folks
wondering “what is the big deal” about a Philly cheesesteak.
Must be Mentioned, More than Honorably
Peter McAndrews, chef at Philly's Modo Mio, runs my favorite pizza place (and Italian restaurant) this side of Trenton -- Media's La Porta (review HERE). In South Philly's evolving Italian Market you will find McAndrews' tiny spot called Paesano's, and there is just an unparalleled assortment of inspired sandwiches. Most are unique, but on my visit I had the roast pork, and it is RIGHT THERE with John's Roast Pork sandwich.
From http://patsvsgenos.blogspot.com/ |
From http://patsvsgenos.blogspot.com/ |
Must be Mentioned, More than Honorably
Peter McAndrews, chef at Philly's Modo Mio, runs my favorite pizza place (and Italian restaurant) this side of Trenton -- Media's La Porta (review HERE). In South Philly's evolving Italian Market you will find McAndrews' tiny spot called Paesano's, and there is just an unparalleled assortment of inspired sandwiches. Most are unique, but on my visit I had the roast pork, and it is RIGHT THERE with John's Roast Pork sandwich.
Roast pork at Paesano's |
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My final food trip with Pete was a visit to Federal Donuts
(fried chicken and, of course, donuts - reviewed HERE) in early 2012. Pete had been gamely
battling lung cancer, and remission gave him time for our baseball and culinary
excursions, as well as two trips to Italy with his family. Pete was a
soft-spoken guy but with his few words he showed me and others how to grab the
most out of life. The world lost a great man at the close of last summer.
When I think about the Phillies, I think about Pete. I think about our trip to the victory parade with his son when the Phils won it all. When I eat a cheesesteak, I remember our gluttonous adventures. I will never again have a grouper sandwich without wishing he was at the table with me. Without him, I wouldn’t have undertaken the “research” to verify the findings of Glen Macnow. And I get an empty feeling each winter when it should be time to plan a spring training trip together.
With Pete, out for grouper sandwiches near Clearwater FL |
Nice list! I'll have to try a few more of these. I'm curious if you've had Carmen's downtown or Philip's Steaks in South Philly? Both have been recommended to me and look great on Yelp.
ReplyDeleteI've been living in the Phil-delphya area for 37+ years now...and have been eating at Mama's Pizzeria on Belmont Ave. in Bala Cynwyd, PA....for 30 of those years. Been to most on your list....and never had one that was better...than Mama's. If I'm gonna eat the calories..it's Mama's.
ReplyDeleteWondering if you've ever tried this place?
For me, the Delorenzo's of Hudson St. of cheesesteaks...and been around almost as long as it was. http://www.yelp.com/biz/mamas-pizzeria-bala-cynwyd
I have heard a little about Carmen's, Philip's, and Mama's, but I've not visited any of those. Sounds like it might change my list a bit! Thanks for the tips, much appreciated.
ReplyDeleteI said, "Hey, Carmen, come on, let's go downtown."
She said, "I gotta go, but my friend can stick around."
"...due to their anti-immigrant stance..."
ReplyDeleteSTOP STOP STOP. Gino's doesn't (and didn't) have an "anti-immigrant stance." Asking people to speak English is not anti-immigrant. You might consider it rude or inappropriate (I don't), but it's not anti-immigrant and Joey Vento made his stance on legal immigration well-known while he was alive.