In
June of 2011, before we discovered Anthony’s Coal-Fired Pizza in Wayne as the
first top-shelf pie anywhere near West Chester PA and Philly’s Main Line, we
read about Peter McAndrew’s plan to open a bistro/pizzeria in Edgemont, PA in
the site of the old Locust Tavern. It’s
been a long wait, but La Porta is finally open and a large group of us headed
there for lunch on a summer Tuesday.
The
interior of La Porta oozes with rustic charm. There are two small but airy
dining rooms that look like a converted farmhouse, and a smallish but chic wine
bar. Our friendly waitresses pushed together three table to accommodate our
party of eight. The non-pizza menu looked fascinating, but we were on a
mission; we ordered eight pizzas (personal size, but bigger than the typical
personal pizza) for our crew of eight and a few salads/starters.
Carbonara pie. Click to enlarge! |
·
Margherita •
mozzarella, plum tomato, basil $10
·
Malfatti •
“badly made” half pizza/stromboli, prosciutto, sweet peppers, mozzarella,
plum tomato $12
·
Bismarck •
white pizza, gorgonzola, fried egg, roasted mushroom, truffled asparagus $13
·
Salsiccia •
house made fennel sausage, plum tomato, mozzarella, rosemary $12
·
Salumi •
artisan sopressatta, plum tomato, asiago, artichoke mostarda $12
·
Napolitano •
anchovy, hot peppers, capers, plum tomato, mozzarella $11
·
Pepperoni •
roasted peppers, pancetta, plum tomato, mozzarella, gorgonzola dolce, basil $12
·
Barolo •
testun di Barolo, fig, caramelized onion, speck $13
·
Rocket •
white pie, arugula, green olives, pistachio pesto, raisins $12
For an appetizer, I chose the Caprese salad. It had nice heirloom tomatoes, artistic drizzles of oil and balsamic vinegar, and the best buffalo mozzarella I have ever had. This tasty cheese is always good, but sometimes it can be wet, bland, or both. But this was luscious – creamy and fresh. The tomatoes were not quite as good as those in my back yard, but they were indeed fine specimens of summer. I cringe at the places who make Caprese salad with a pink Florida tomato.
"Malfatti" half-pizza, half-stromboli |
The crust was an absolute delight. As I’ve found with other superb pies, it had some characteristics of a Neapolitan crust, but it was firm and crisp like a Trenton/Brooklyn slice. I have to go back soon and eat this pizza again, because that crust was magical. I think it can rival some of my all-time favorites. Everything that topped that crust was a premiere ingredient, applied judiciously, and all in harmony with the essence of that particular pie variety.
If I were to quibble, the only change I’d make would be to cut back or replace the sweet peppers. But that truly is quibbling, because this is easily the best pie in any ‘burb west of Philly. In fact, it beats some of Philly’s stars, like Osteria and Stephen Starr’s Stella. I need to get into Tacconelli’s in Port Richmond (so far, I’ve had only the Moorestown NJ Tacconelli’s pie) so we can know who makes the best pizza in Pennsylvania.
If I were to quibble, the only change I’d make would be to cut back or replace the sweet peppers. But that truly is quibbling, because this is easily the best pie in any ‘burb west of Philly. In fact, it beats some of Philly’s stars, like Osteria and Stephen Starr’s Stella. I need to get into Tacconelli’s in Port Richmond (so far, I’ve had only the Moorestown NJ Tacconelli’s pie) so we can know who makes the best pizza in Pennsylvania.
Sausage pizza |
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