Making pizza at home can be a fun, if occasionally
frustrating exercise. I'm not an accomplished baker - and so while I feel
confident in choosing the right types and amounts of toppings, I've struggled
to produce a crust that is better than that of even the most mundane corner
pizza shop. And, with rare exception, the crust is the key to pizza success.
Home pizza makers face one built-in disadvantage - the oven
typically gets no hotter than 500 or 550 degrees. Commercial pizza ovens begin
at 600 degrees (gas types) and go up to 900 degrees or higher, allowing some
pies to cook in 90 seconds. This high heat allows for all kinds of magic to
take place both in the crust and in how the toppings meld to the crust.
Another hurdle is the cooking surface. Commercial ovens have
a baking surface that is already hot when the pie goes into the oven.
Home pie makers typically make their pies in round or rectangular pans which
are room temp before entering the oven, or they use a pizza stone.
The pizza stone is a great advance. You can put it in your
oven, let it pre-heat as your baking surface, and then insert the pie. The
stone is sufficiently porous that excess moisture can escape. However, the
stone is often the same size as your pizza, so it requires a lot of dexterity
to get your pizza onto the hot stone for cooking. Some folks just put the pizza - in a pan -
onto the stone. Others have had success with swapping quarry tiles for the
stone, using up to four 12" square tiles to get a big 2 feet by 2 feet
baking surface.
Not long ago, I discovered the "Baking Steel" - a
quarter-inch thick slab of rectangular steel. It cost me $72, but once it is
pre-heated for an hour, you get a hot cooking surface that comes pretty close
to that of a commercial gas oven. It is heavy, difficult to clean, clumsy to
store - but it produces wonderful pizza crusts. See my full review HERE. It is
a clear upgrade over the pizza stone, and it allows easier transfer from your
pizza peel to the baking surface.
Then, a few months ago, I saw a Kickstarter campaign for the
"Pizza Grate." Like the Baking Steel, the designer sought to craft an
optimal surface for baking pizza at home. He tested and found better results
using aluminum over steel. He built prototypes with large ventilation holes, to
allow excess moisture to escape. It is big - about the full size of an oven
rack - and it has a backstop to prevent you from sliding your pie off the rear
edge. It is lightweight and easy to handle, but it is clumsy to store (due to
its size) and difficult to clean. The
key question is - how are the pies baked on the Pizza Grate?
My first attempt produced a very tasty pie, but I did burn
the bottom (not quite to the point of inedible) even though the top was cooked
about perfectly. I concluded that, because the aluminum conducts heat to the
crust faster than does the steel, I needed to raise my oven rack higher to get
a better balance of top cooking (my gas oven goes to 550 degrees).
On my third attempt, I made several adjustments. I did move
the rack higher, and I followed a crust recipe as closely as I could. I used
the recipe from Roberta's in Brooklyn (a hipster restaurant which I have visited and reviewed HERE).
You can find the recipe in the New York Times HERE. I made the dough on a
Saturday, refrigerated it for 24 hours, then let it warm to room temp for about
an hour before making the pies.
I used 50% Italian imported "00" flour and 50% conventional all-purpose flour, with a little salt and olive oil; I resisted the urge to stray from the recipe by adding some sugar as I otherwise might do.
The recipe was enough for two 12" personal pies, and
for the first time in my pie-making experience, I did not use a rolling pin to
expand the diameter of the crust. I
actually "hand-tossed" the pie (not airborne), stretching it only with
my thumbs and gravity. I did a clumsy job, but they both came out in rough
12" rounds, albeit with uneven thicknesses.
I followed my norm for the sauce - a simple can of diced
tomatoes (from ALDI), drained, and then hand-crushed. I added some fresh garlic and dried basil and
a bit of olive oil. I never cook the sauce before it goes on the pie. The one
standard can of tomatoes was enough for both 12" rounds.
Roberta's Neapolitan pie calls for fresh mozzarella cheese,
but I opted for the cheese on hand in my fridge. I grated a combo of about 2/3
Dubliner (Irish cheese) and 1/3 Grana Padano. The cheddar-like Dubliner supplied the
requisite creaminess, and the Grana Padano added a pungent tang. I've learned that
the key to successful pies is to go lightly with all toppings.
Finally, I had some Chianti-infused cured salami (also from ALDI), which I
cut as thinly as possible for a topping better than pepperoni. It was
essentially a sweet soppressata. As a rookie dough handler, I used lots of
flour on my hands, the prep surface, and the peel. The resulting pies had that
telltale white dusting. I've always regarded that a sign of artisanal baking,
but some family members wish I could make crust without the unmoistened
external flour.
Results? After about 7 minutes, I checked the underside of
the pies. Cooking, but not at all burnt. I then turned off the baking setting
and switched to broil (high) for two minutes more to watch the cheese bubble
and the salami become crisp on the edges.
The pies came out with more hole structure and puffiness
than anything I've made. Texture-wise,
it was ideally like a puffy Neapolitan that is somehow crisp and a little rigid
underneath, exactly as I would hope.
Due to the uneven thickness, some parts were more doughy than ideal. But
on balance, this crust was better than about half of the Neapolitan pies I've
had, and there was no soupy wet center.
The sauce was close to perfect, but not quite the magic I
recently experienced at Vetri and Bufad in Philly (review of Vetri HERE, and
Bufad HERE). The cheeses were fine, but the Dubliner may have been a bit too
bland. I've really enjoyed tallegio on pies lately, and need to get some. The
salami added the perfect salty, meaty, smoky edge - but hot soppressata might
have been even better.
The Pizza Grate has taken on some major stains after just
three uses. The creator suggests cleaning with steel wool or in the oven on the
"clean" setting, but I may just regard this added color as seasoning.
This is the best pizza I've made at home. Certainly much of
the credit goes to the Roberta's recipe and a little goes to my slowly
improving pizzaolo craft. But without question, the Pizza Grate is a wonderful
tool for the home pizza chef.
Which is better - the Baking Steel or the Pizza Grate? I think I need to bake and eat a lot more pies before I can say. For me, both are clearly superior to a pizza stone. If you are a home pizza maker, I recommend you get one or both.
"Seasoned" Pizza Grate - after I cleaned it |
Which is better - the Baking Steel or the Pizza Grate? I think I need to bake and eat a lot more pies before I can say. For me, both are clearly superior to a pizza stone. If you are a home pizza maker, I recommend you get one or both.
Disclosure: Several months back, I did THIS interview with
inventor John Daniels. Although the Kickstarter campaign did not reach its
goal, he proceeded to build some prototypes and sent one to me for my analysis.
In other words, I paid $72 for my Baking Steel, but got the Pizza Grate without
charge. Still, I wouldn't recommend either if I did not have success with them.
Very interesting. We've been using a goldtouch aluminized steel "pizza crisper" from Williams Sonoma that we like. It's affordable, easy to clean, handle and store. Worth getting a couple for multiple bakes when serving more people.
ReplyDeleteExcellent post and blog! Sharing your experiences in the best food of the world gives us pizza lovers great direction in creating our own masterpieces. I love thin cracker crust pizza and near me in Largo is the best hole in the wall pizza joint around, Charlie and Millie's. Thanks! Ken
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