From www.PapasTomatoPies.com |
To get a baseline, I
generally want to try a
plain or sausage slice before I venture into specialty pies (for
instance, I
went to Frank Pepe's and didn't try the clam pie). But after
our first visit, more than one Trenton native told me to try the "mustard
pie" at Papa's. Whaaaa? Here is what they do -- spread a coat of
mustard on the crust before the application of sauce and cheese. "Sounds
weird, tastes great" was the universal endorsement.
Good seats easy to get at Trenton Thunder! |
Last
week, I went to see the Trenton Thunder with FEEP (fellow enthusiast for eating
pizza) Jr. We ate too much stadium food -- a decent pulled pork sandwich at
"Boomer's BBQ" and an awesome oversized bucket of crab fries from
Chickie & Pete's -- and hence we were not hungry for more than a slice. Still, we decided
to get some good Jersey pie to take back to Pennsylvania. We toyed with going
to Nomad Pizza in nearby Hopewell, but in my experience the Neapolitan pies
really suffer if you don't eat them hot out of the oven. On the other hand,
just last week I enjoyed the last few slices from my months-ago visit to
Papa's, having pulled them from the freezer to reheat at home. We made the
short trip to Papa's.
On
my first visit, we had arrived at night. The deteriorating neighborhood looked
a little better in daylight, but not the large red awning that identifies
Papa's. It is faded, torn, and taped over. Time for a new one! Inside, we ordered two pies to go -- one
mustard pie with half sausage, half pepperoni for me, and one pie with
meatballs and onions for FEEP Jr.
Pepperoni pie, from our previous visit |
As we were loading the pies into the trunk, FEEP
Jr wanted to try one slice of the mustard pie. We tried to lift out a hot slice, and it proved too wet/unstable. So, we let it sit for the 15 minute
drive back to PA, and then we were more easily able to make the swap. I took a
few bites of a meatball slice while it was still warm. Once again, my smell and
taste senses were transported back to the perfect pizza of my youth -- Rosa's
in Riverside NJ. As good as all the flavors are, the key differentiator is the
texture.
On
the drive, even though the mustard pie was stored in the trunk, its aroma filled
the cabin. And the dominant smell was the mustard! I commented to FEEP Jr. that it smelled like I had a trunk
full of stadium hot dogs. As soon as I got home, another hour later, I reheated
several slices of the mustard pie. Time
to taste and evaluate.
Overall,
this pie had excellent balance of textures -- the crust held up to the sauce
and cheese toppings. But it was a tad wetter than my previous Papa's pies, and
perhaps the mustard adds just a bit of moisture. How was the taste? Well, this
was wonderful pizza. All of the elements that make Trenton tomato pie so special
were present, and then the additional mustard flavor. The mustard (I still
can't be sure if it was yellow or brown mustard) was present, but not
overwhelming. It almost had the flavoring effect of "one more
topping" albeit an invisible one. I loved this pie, but probably a little
less than the same pie without mustard. But it triggered a Key Pizza Theory for
me!
Last
year at a summer party in Staten Island, I asked the locals which is the best
pizza on the island. They were unanimous -- "Denino's." Subsequently, I visited Denino's and I loved it (full review is on this blog). Like a Trenton
pie, it featured a thin and sturdy crust. Like a Trenton pie, it is defined by the
base, not the toppings, although of course the toppings and sauce were superb.
Like a Trenton pie, the cheese is a role player (unlike the soupy puddles of buffalo
mozz that float on too many Neapolitan efforts). "Having said that," what REALLY distinguished
the Denino's pie was the saltiness of the sauce. I am a salt fiend; I salt
almost every meat or vegetable. I love the whole sweet-and-salty thing; I routinely
salt pizza before tasting it; I even salt DiFara and DeLorenzo pies. But this Denino's pie did not need any added surface salt.
We
all have different desires/tolerances for salt in food, but for many of us,
more salt = more tasty. And I think that one reason folks love Denino's pie is
that it has more salt. Now, no amount of salt is going to make Domino's or Papa
John's Pizza worth eating, but if you take a superb pie and make it a little
saltier, wow! We are accustomed to doctoring up our pies with red pepper
flakes, garlic powder, grated cheese, but perhaps the most powerful condiment
is the simplest.
And
that may explain the popularity of the mustard pie. Mustard is very salty! At
the small price of adding a little moisture to the overall mix, you get an
added salty dimension. I would not be shocked if a ketchup pizza proved equally
successful. In the final analysis, the mustard pie for me is almost as good as their conventional pie. Even reheated the next day, the extra moisture under the cheese made it slide off too easily. I love the extra salt, but I can apply it from the top.
I
got a warm feeling sitting in the cozy dining room at Papa's as we waited for
our pies. If you are a regular, you know that feeling. If you haven't been, it's
a treat you shouldn't miss. Even as pizza lovers can revel in the growth of new
hip places crafting epicurean Neapolitan pizzas, the number of old-school
authentic pizza joints is shrinking. It's worth your time to wait to get into
DiFara or DeLorenzo's (now only in Robbinsville NJ), but Papa's may be the best
opportunity to experience destination pizza the way that regular folks have
enjoyed it for 75 years. My love for DeLorenzo's pie is undiminished, but Papa's is my Go-To place in Trenton.
The new awning is on its way! Thanks for the positive review~
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