Salvatore is a relative newcomer, but arguably even more "old school" in that they have a coal-fired brick oven in which they craft true Neapolitan pies. In my lifetime, there have been a lot more places offering Trenton and New York style pizza; crafting pies more "true" to pizza's home in Naples is a more recent trend (and a good one!)
The difference is mostly in the crust. The best old school pies have a golden look to them when baked; the crust is crisp outside and densely chewy inside. A Neapolitan crust is whiter, but with lovely leopard spots on the upper surface and underside too. It is softer and lighter; it does have chewiness but not much crispness. It's wonderful, but for me it will never surpass Trenton style.
|From their website; click to enlarge|
Their website tells us that "Master pizza maker Salvatore Ganci perfected his skills in the art of pizza making during his years at the legendary Lombardi’s" -- hence the "of Soho" for this Staten Island eatery. I called ahead for my pie and an order of spaghetti bolognese for EPBAC (eats pizza but avoids cheese). I was told that they would not bake the pie until I arrived, because it's best eaten right out of the oven and it takes only 3 minutes to cook.
|The whole pie|
|A closer view|
Sal tells us that his pizza is "created with Imported Italian tomatoes, homemade mozzarella, extra virgin olive oil, freshly grated parmigiana and topped with fresh basil. Then it is flash-baked in a very high temperature coal-fired oven." The sauce and tomatoes were indeed excellent, and after the re-heat the elements were in perfect harmony. Like every Neapolitan pie, this one was a little wet in the middle, but not soggy as some can be.
|Nice char on the underside|
All told, this was an excellent pizza and I am pretty sure it would be considerably better to eat it right there when it comes out of the oven. I give Salvatore's of Soho 8.5 stars. The pasta was quite good, also, EPBAC reports.
[UPDATE: Sadly, Salvatore's has closed. Maybe Staten Island wasn't ready for Neapolitan style?]