Saturday, October 14, 2017

Review: Razza Pizza Artigianale, Jersey City NJ

Razza Pizza Artigianale, the pizza restaurant in Jersey City across the street from City Hall, opened five years ago, shortly after I began this blog. Neapolitan-style pizzerias are common today, but Razza was on the front side of the trend. 

Despite frequent trips to Jersey City for business, I could never get to Razza for a pie because I was rarely in town at dinner time.

This week, I finally got the chance, but my visit to Razza comes just one month after Pete Wells of the New York Times (readership somewhat larger than Pizza Quixote) declared Razza (in New Jersey!) to be New York's best pizza. As a result, even as I arrived before 6:00 p.m. on a weeknight, I waited more than 30 minutes for a seat at the bar.

Razza was buzzing with excited customers on this warm autumn day, some dining al fresco and others at the narrow tables and modest bar. Some were out-of-towners, some were regulars, and some were locals who had to come see if Razza merited the hype. The interior space, narrow and deep, was casually urban-rustic with a warm vibe.

My server warned me that pizzas take a long time (she cited that they are all custom-made, but the real issue was likely the volume of customers relative to the size of the oven). Facing that long wait, I was persuaded to order the beet salad, which was modest in size but not in flavor. Cubes of red and golden beets were drizzled in deep green olive oil with garnishes of cheese, almonds, and paper thin radish slices.

Dining solo, I didn't have the option of sampling several different pies. My selection this evening was the Cinghiale Bianca ($18), a white pie with wild boar salami and kale. The wild boar (shown as "sausage" on the menu) was the drawing card. Owner/chef Dan Richer is meticulous in choosing the tomatoes for his sauce (sourced from NJ, CA, or Italy), and that means I have to go back to try a pie with red sauce.

I would ordinarily be leery of a pie loaded with damp mounds of kale, but the NYT review noted that every pie is "put together with exquisite sensitivity to the needs of the dough. The crust had no soggy or underbaked patches, and the bottom surface was crisp all the way from the puffy outer lip to the inner tip ... when I tore open the outer rim, the crust crackled and the white interior steamed, soft, somewhat springy, with a slow-building, many-layered, lively flavor underlined by sea salt."

At the iconic Denino's in Staten Island, they simply and succinctly say "In crust we trust." Clearly, Dan Richer embraces that philosophy at Razza. The test of any pie is "would I eat the crust without the toppings?" The answer here is a resounding YES. 

This pie shares much in common with the Neapolitan hybrids at the wonderful yet still underrated La Porta in Media PA (chef Peter McAndrews) and the strictly authentic pies at Scuola Vecchia in Delray Beach FL, where owner Sharon Aloisio was trained by Robert Caporuscio.

It's no surprise that the toppings were applied in ideal balance. No soggy mounds of chewy kale, but a lovely bit of kale clippings that had browned from the heat of the wood-fired oven. I should have paid closer attention to the cheese, which certainly contained fresh mozz of some sort. 

The skill of the pizzaiolo was again on display, because fresh mozzarella often imparts moisture that can ruin a Neapolitan. But there was no dampness or soggy sections here.

Despite the brilliant chew and crackle of the crust and the other powerful flavors, my experience eating this pizza was akin to eating top-line Japanese food; the harmony and the balance send subtle signals that are more important than the individual flavors.

The pies were so good that my fellow bar-seat patrons and I were compelled to rave and compare tasting notes. Is the best New York pizza in Jersey City? I'm not ready for such a bold declaration, but this pie is as good as Neapolitan gets. $18 for a personal size pie (I ate it all) may seem pricey, but it's a screaming bargain for such a gourmet experience. I can't wait to come back.
Razza Pizza Artigianale Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Tuesday, October 3, 2017

Review: Salvation Pizza, Austin TX

Recently, a friend asked me to rank the top pizza cities in America. In fourth place was Austin, Texas. Before my first visit there, I wouldn't have imagined any Texas entry in the top ten. But Austin is not only the hippest city in Texas; it rivals Portland and Brooklyn as one of the most diverse and artistic towns anywhere. 
On previous visits, I had enjoyed authentic New York slices at Home Slice, religiously authentic Neapolitans at Pieous, and state-of-the-art bar pies and Detroit-style pizza at Via 313. On this visit, I was drawn to the New Haven style pies offered by Salvation Pizza, with three Austin locations. 
New Haven, of course, is high on my list of top American pizza towns. New Haven style done right is wonderful stuff, and I've experienced it in far-flung places like Portland at Apizza Scholls and San Diego at Basic Urban Kitchen

 The website for Salvation Pizza notes that
"We serve New Haven-style pizza, known for a thin, hand-pounded crust with its distinctive snap and crunch. By using traditional techniques, preparing our dough daily from scratch, and sourcing the freshest ingredients, we craft the highest quality pizzas. With its beautiful dog-friendly patio and spacious backyard beer garden, our little red house is the perfect gathering place to meet your friends and family for an authentic East Coast pizza experience."
By Uber accident, I chose the original location at 624 W. 34th Street, instead of the Rainey Street location that was much closer to my downtown hotel. On this rainy Tuesday night, the restaurant was mostly empty but the friendly staff was attentive. It's worth noting that there was a terrific series of acoustic alt-country tunes playing in the background.
I chose a small 14" pizza with onion and sausage, which came to $15, and a pint of Big Bend Hefeweizen for $6.
The crust was uniformly thin and crisp, right out to the cornicione. It sported an old-school char underneath, with just the right amount of grease stains. Its character was more bar pie than New Haven.  
The sausage, in fairly small crumbles, had properly been applied raw. It was a delightful umami blend of savory, salty, greasy, and spicy. The onions were medium sized pieces that had cooked to an ideal tenderness.
I tried to get a read on the sauce and cheese, but they had melded into an orange role player in all the best ways. Both were applied in ideal proportion to that brilliant crackling crunchy crust; this pie was perfectly balanced. I did detect some evidence of a grated aged cheese applied post-bake.
Beautiful underside of the crust
I ate six of the eight slices and could easily have finished this pizza, partly because it was so thin but perhaps moreso because it was irresistably good. In my tasting notes I recorded "old school all the way" and "amazing value."
I've stood in long lines for lesser pizzas; Austin citizens are fortunate to be able to walk right in and order pies this good with no hassle. Absolutely destination pizza and one of the reasons that Austin is a premiere pizza city.

Salvation Pizza Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Friday, September 15, 2017

Recap: Pizza Palooza - National Harbor, MD

The problem with the typical "Pizza Fest" type of event is that no matter how much talent the participating pizzamakers possess, their best pies suffer in cardboard boxes when transported en masse from the pizzeria to the pizza event location.

I had a great time at the South Philly Pizza Olympics in 2012, but the pies were less than ideal because of the minutes and hours spent sweating in cardboard, losing not only the oven heat but the crisp texture that makes an ideal crust. The easy winner of that event was Nomad Pizza, largely because they were the only ones baking pies on site (from the wood-fired Neapolitan oven on a mobile pizza truck).

I was excited to attend the "Pizza Palooza" event at the MGM Hotel/Casino in National Harbor MD (on the banks above the Potomac, minutes outside of Washington DC), mostly because of the celebrity pizzaioli in the lineup. Tickets, with taxes and fees, came to about $115 for this all you can eat, all you can drink event.
View of Potomac from MGM rooftop deck
What made it irresistible - even at that price - was the pizza royalty there. I finally got to meet Scott Wiener of Scott's Pizza Tours, where he was doing a lot of the work helping John Arena craft the Sicilian pies by Metro Pizza. For the record, he's a wonderful guy with genuine passion for pizza.
John Arena, Scott Wiener, Pizza Quixote
Other pie makers (not a complete list) :

  • Giulio Andriani - The Local Pizzaiolo (Atlanta)
  • Vincent Rotolo - Evel Pie (Las Vegas)
  • Paulie Gee - Paulie G's (several locations)
  • Nino Coniglio - Willliamsburg Pizza
  • Robert Caporuscio - Keste Pizza, Don Antonio (NYC)
  • Joseph Englese - MGM Hotel (National Harbor MD)
  • John Arena - Metro Pizza (Las Vegas)
  • Gino Rago - Panino's Pizza (Chicago)

Some of the Palooza chefs and celebs
What made this event special? As noted, the abundance of genuine world-class pizzaioli. It was a lovely sunny day for this event on a huge rooftop deck overlooking the Potomac. The best surprise, though, was that one of the sponsors was pizza oven maker Marra Forni, and every chef had a huge mobile Neapolitan pizza oven. No lukewarm pizza in boxes!
John Arena of Metro Pizza at his Marra Forni oven
The organizers claimed that 250 pies were coming out each hour during this 5 hour event; Panino's reported that they served 600 slices of their Chicago deep dish pizza, and everything was hot out of the oven.

I imagine that the pie makers had to adjust to the ovens, though. While indeed some were offering the kind of Neapolitan pies that cook in 90 seconds and for which these ovens were designed, there were also some New York style pies, a thick Sicilian, a Chicago deep-dish, and a gluten-free Detroit pie.
John Arena, Michael LaMarca (PMQ Magazine), Scott Wiener
We stayed for almost 4 hours, sipping a variety of the craft beers on tap, and we tried every single pizza offered (as well as the porchetta and desserts). There was no bad pizza, no ordinary pizza. Baked fresh on site by some of the world's best, the pies ranged from very good to great to stunning.
Giulio Adriani (formerly of Forcella)
I've become a little jaded to Neapolitan pies, with a preference for the crisper and sturdier pies baked in the New York style, or even the more substantial thick Sicilian and Detroit pan pizzas. But this event renewed my interest in Neapolitans. 
Lenny Rago, Panino's Pizza
Standout Neapolitans included the Montanara-style by Giulio Andriani, who came to fame with the "fried dough" Neapolitans at Forcella in New York. He's about to open new Neapolitan shops in some Atlanta locations. The pies he made here at Palooza sported that same wonderful crisp edges I remember from my visit to Forcella.
Paulie Gee
Paulie G's Neapolitans have been on my radar for a long time, and I finally got to sample the pie and meet Paulie Gee himself! Based on his activity at Palooza, his active Facebook page, and his five Paulie G's locations, I assume he never sleeps. 
Paulie G's "Barry White"
We tried the Barry White, with mozzarella, garlic infused olive oil, shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano, Pecorino Romano, and Aleppo chili oil. Spectacular. And I had 2 slices of his signature pie, the Hellboy, featuring fresh mozzarella, Italian tomatoes, Berkshire soppressata, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and Mike’s Hot Honey. It lived up to its lofty reputation. I could eat this stuff every day.
Paulie G's Hellboy
Another NYC pizzeria on my bucket list has been Keste. I still haven't been there, but I did discover Scuola Vecchia, a wonderful Neapolitan pizzeria in Delray Beach, FL. My two dining partners there both proclaimed "best pizza I've ever had" and I certainly agreed that it was my favorite Neapolitan. 
Giulio Adriani and Robert Caporuscio
I later learned that the pie makers there had been trained by Robert Caporuscio, of Keste. More recently, I had the excellent Neapolitan pie at Don Antonio in Manhattan, another Caporuscio project. So it was no surprise that the Neapolitans made on site here were exemplary, and meeting Robert was icing on the cake.
Panino's Chicago style deep dish
On a recent trip to Chicago, I tried several of the different thick pan styles, and learned that most take about 45 minutes to cook. That had to be a significant hurdle for the one Chicago participant here, so I imagine the Lenny Rago of Panino's Pizza had to employ some shortcuts with partially cooked crusts or pies. Either way, he was churning out some pretty excellent representations of that style.
Vincent Rotolo, Evel Pie
The most stunning pizza of the day - and my runner-up favorite - was the gluten-free Detroit-style pan pizza crafted by Vincent Rotolo of Evel Pie. I had low expectations, because gluten is such a valuable factor in achieving the ideal pizza crust texture. But this pizza was not "almost real pizza" or even "pretty good for gluten-free." 
Evel Pie's gluten-free Detroit style pizza
It was spectacular pie, one of the best I've eaten all year. Crisp, dense yet chewy, and topped with the perfect balance of sauce and cheese. We were stuffing our bellies in trying all the beers and pizzas, yet I came back for another slice of this remarkable pie. And even on this warm and busy day of crafting pies, Vincent talked with me for a long time about his method and his passion for creating this pie. I was nearly speechless. If you are in Las Vegas, you have to try this pizza.
Simple canned Italian tomatoes
My favorite pizza of the day was also a thick pie baked in a pan by a Las Vegas pizzaiolo, the Sicilian pie made by John Arena and his all-star helper, Scott Wiener. John had par-baked his large rectangular crusts as a way to turn out a high volume of pies in the Neapolitan oven for this event. 
Scott applies the sauce
Scott was the assembly man and John was the baker, and the results were astonishing. The crust was magical - crisp, thick yet airy, bursting with flavor. The cheese was good, the sauce was hard to believe. John freely shared that he uses some caramelized onions and one anchovy per huge can of simple tomatoes for this piquant sauce.

This Sicilian style pie from Metro pizza stands right up there with the other jaw-dropping thick pan pies I've had recently: Detroit pizza from Norma's Pizza; sesame-crusted rectangles from Rize; Detroit pizza at Via 313; Old Forge style at Elio G's; and the elusive Detroit/Old Forge hybrid from James Oley at Binge House Pizza.
Gino Rago, Panino's Pizza
Great weather, cold craft beer on tap, rooftop deck, meet and greet with world class pizzaioli, and more than a dozen authentic pizzas and styles being baked hot and fresh on site. If you see a Pizza Palooza in your town, it's a good investment of time and money.

Forcella Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
Paulie Gee's Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
Kesté Pizza & Vino Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
Panino's Pizzeria Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
Evel Pie Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
Metro Pizza Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
Voltaggio Brothers Steakhouse Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato